Basic Info:
If handled and taken care of properly rabbits can be very exciting pets to have and live up to 10+ years. Most can be litter trained, therefore making it even more exciting when you're able to let them roam outside of their cage. Not only is it great to have them litter trained for the purpose of letting them out for a little excercise but it makes cleaning a WHOLE LOT EASIER. They can be very friendly and lovable with time and interaction. Like any other animal, rabbits have different personalities, which makes each one interesting in his or her ways.
Housing:
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors.
With indoor rabbits I recommend the rabbit's cage be kept in a more quiet place in the house away from open windows, an indoor rabbit not used to outside temperatures could easily catch a cold from a draft.
If you're wanting to house your rabbit outdoors I recommend putting them outdoors in the spring/ summer months, therefore they become climatized to the weather as it becomes colder. Make sure your outdoor bunny is out of the elements though, think of rain and snow as it can come through at many angles.
Keep in mind on hot summer days to supply your rabbit with something cool to lay on (ex. a frozen bottle) to keep your bun from over- heating.
Also, in the winter months to provide your rabbit with a warm place to cuddle up in.
I love using completely wire rabbit cages with metal trays underneath to catch urine and droppings. It keeps the rabbit clean and makes for easier cleaning of the cage. The metal trays can be pulled out, hosed down and sanitized easily.
Taking your bunny in and out of his cage:
Doing it backwards is easiest. When taking your rabbit out of his cage, doing it backwards just ensures that his feet (especially back feet) do not get caught on the sides of the cage door.
Then, when putting your rabbit back in the cage, when putting them in forwards they usually try to jump forward into their cage, possibly injuring you or your rabbit. Going in backwards they won't see the cage door coming and you can set them gently back into their cage.
Time:
It's a misconception that rabbits take no time to care for. If housed in a cage where they sit on bedding the cage should be cleaned every other day. They also need proper food, fresh water daily, proper grooming (especially for longer haired breeds and when shedding), and trimming their nails. If not kept up on trimming, this could lead to serious feet problems with the rabbit.
The more time you spend with your rabbit the more sociable, interactive, and happy pet you'll have.
Trimming Your Rabbit's Nails:
The way I trim my rabbit's nails is simple. I just set my rabbit on my lap with their head facing right or left, so their body is parallel with my own. I then gently pick up the outside front foot (side farthest away from you) and trim it (usually easy) and then the back foot. If your rabbit is relaxed they'll allow you to slide it out from under them sideways quite easily. After I am done that side I reverse them (ex. If their head was facing right you'll move them around so their head is now facing left). Once again pick up the rabbit's front foot then back.
If you're lucky enough to have someone to help you they can also hold the bunny for you. With one hand on the rabbit's chest and one on the rabbit's butt, your helper can then hold the rabbit to their chest with the rabbit's feet facing away from them. Makes it a lot easier for you to go ahead and trim.
Handling:
Handle your rabbits as much as possible. Also keep in mind that rabbits, like people, have different personalities; some like to be handled and cuddled a lot and other would just rather sit on your lap. There are many ways of picking up your rabbit when wanting to interact with them. Firstly, you can pick them up by their scruff (their skin on their upper back, closer to the ears to midsection of the rabbit's back). This is actually a very easy way to pick your rabbit up. If your rabbit is a little skiddish and tries to squirm it keeps you from getting scratched and its less likely you will drop your rabbit . Use one hand to gently grab the skin closer to the midsection of the rabbit to balance the weight of their body. Use your other hand to support their butt. Once picked up bring your bunny in close to your chest, with his head facing into your arm. If you plan on showing your rabbit I do not recommend picking your rabbit up this way. Or, another way of picking your bunny up is to slide your one hand under your rabbit's chest and another around it's butt, then gently pick up your rabbit. Start by handling your rabbit early, so they trust you later on. For children handling rabbits its easiest to start out by sitting on the floor and setting the rabbit on their lap to reduce the risk of the rabbit falling. Another way to start out by handling your rabbit is to wrap him up in a blanket, it'll makes your rabbit feel more secure.
Food/ Water:
I feed my rabbits a 1/2 cup to a cup of rabbit pellets a day, this way I know they're cleaning up their food and can instantly notice if one is sick and not eating. Another good thing about limiting their feed (for show rabbits) is to keep them from getting overly fat and flabby for the show tables. Also, for brood does, an over weight doe may have a difficult time becoming pregnant.
As for my pregnant and nursing does they get as much feed as they like. They have babies to take care of along with themselves and need all the food they can get.
I also give my pregnant does a mineral lick to give them that extra they may need while pregnant and/ or nursing.
Every so often I give them nice, grassy, 2nd cut hay which is a mix of timothy/ alfalfa.
My bunnies get fresh water daily and every so often I'll mix in with their water some medication and vitamins.
They also get treats (fresh grass, lettuce, and carrots).
From my experiences some safe treats for rabbits to eat are: apples (decore and make sure the apple is free of seeds), peaches, pears, seedless grapes, bananas, carrots, and lettuce.
Also, while picking the dandelions out of your yard save them for your bunny. Rabbits love the big dandelion leaves, as well as dandelions are good for your rabbits, especially if you have a sick bunny. If your rabbit isn't used to fresh greens don't feed too much, as it may cause diarrhea. Also make sure that where you pick your fresh greens (grass, dandelions, etc) that it hasn't been sprayed by insecticide!!!!!
Types:
Buck (male) or doe (female)?
I really do not have a preference, either make great pets.
Pairs??
I find some rabbits are happier in pairs, but rabbits have different personalities.
From the same litter is the best, as they've been born and raised together and of course the same sex UNLESS they've been spayed or neutered.
Personally I don't find any preference in having a pair of bucks together or two does, like I said rabbits have different personalities and it depends upon the two rabbits.
My personal experience with pairing rabbits:
I had two older does who I retired from breeding. I decided that since they were reitred to buy a big cage and put the two in together. I have had both does for a few years and in those years both had never been caged with another rabbit. Well I put them together and...... they LOVED eachother. I have never seen two animals love one another so much. They layed together/ ontop of eachother, and constantly groomed eachother. Well, one day sadly the one doe passed. So, I had another pet doe and felt bad for my now lonely doe and decided to put the two together. These two does never got along from the first time they saw eachother and still don't. So, personally I believe it depends all on the rabbits themselves.
Choosing a breed!
When choosing a breed my preference is a smaller type of rabbit, therefore I chose mini rexes. I find these are the best as indoor pet rabbits as they're smaller in type. I would only recommend larger breeds to those who have the space. But, all in all it's completely up to YOU and what you're looking for in a rabbit!!!
Breeding:
Terms:
Doe is a female rabbit and buck is a male rabbit.
Kit is the offspring or baby bunnies.
Kindling means birthing.
Catching/ catch means the doe was bred (you can tell by watching; the buck will kick over and fall off the doe, sometimes letting out a grunt).
Dam is the mother of a rabbit.
Sire is the father of a rabbit.
Weaning is when you remove the baby bunnies from the mother, they feed and drink on their own now.
There are many questions you should ask yourself before breeding.
Number one question should be WHY; whether you're choosing to breed for the purpose of showing, pets, or meat production.
I wouldn't recommend breeding for the purpose of JUST TO BREED and trying to make some extra $$$.
Most times the cost in raising them to weaning age (I wait until 6-8 weeks of age, sometimes longer) can be quite high.
Those who show their rabbits also have the cost of raising a whole herd, travelling expenses, time and energy, therefore most breeders are breeding because they love it.
If you're breeding for showing purposes be sure to take a good look at what you're breeding (colours, heritage, overall appearance [shoulders, hindquarters, etc], size, and especially with the mini rexes, FUR).
What kind of standards are you trying to meet???
Are you prepared for possible deaths?
Not only could you lose your whole litter, but with pregnancy complications you could lose your doe as well.
Be prepared for deaths, health complications, breeding complications, and to spend quite a bit of money.
Have patience!
Before breeding:
You'll need a cage for the doe, a cage for the buck, and when it comes time to wean, a cage for the kits.
If you're deciding to keep some of your kits you'll need to seperate them later on.
And so on... if you have more/ other breeding pairs.
Keep in mind, you'll need waterers, feederers, etc for all those cages.
Once you've chose your pair to breed make sure your rabbits are free of disease.
Are they sick?? Discharge from nose, runny eyes, loose stool.
Also overweight does have a hard time conceiving.
Breeding Begins:
Bring the doe to the bucks cage. If you bring the buck to the does cage he may be too busy sniffing around, and a doe could also be territorial/ aggressive about him being in her house.
The buck will mount her and within a few seconds he'll kick over and fall over/ off and sometimes grunt.
I usually allow the buck to catch the doe 3 times and remove her.
Some leave the doe in over night, I prefer to watch and make sure no one gets hurt and to make sure she catches.
After Breeding:
As early as 16 days the doe will show signs of being pregnant. Stuffing their mouths with hay and sometimes I've found they'll scratch their pellets our of their dish.
I don't put a nest box in until the 27th day. This keeps the nest box clean as some may muck about in the box by deficating in it, but still allows them time to make a nice nest.
I also use steel nest boxes as they're easy to clean and sanitize. I stuff the nest boxes full of straw, I like this best as it allows the doe to build a nice big nest and keep the kits nice and warm.
At 30- 32 days your doe should kindle. Sometimes your doe will pick fur before birthing but many won't pick fur until afterwards, so don't panic.
A rabbit can't pick up its offspring like cats so if one happens to fall out of the box you'll need to put it back in the nest. If a kit happens to fall out of the nest and becomes cold you may need to warm it up. Don't throw out a cold kit. Even though it may look dead USUALLY warming it up brings them right back.
Check on your litter daily, to ensure all are alive and healthy. If one's missing you may have a dead one somewhere in the nest, which you'll need to pick out as they can become a stinky mess.
At about 10- 12 days they should begin opening their eyes.
Then at about 3 weeks they will start coming out of the nest box, this is the time to take the nest box out, clean it up and have it ready for next use.
At about 4 weeks they'll start testing the feed and water.
At 6-8 weeks I like to wean mine. If you're breeding for show purposes I like to keep mine until 12- 14 weeks to determine their showing potential. If you're not breeding for this purpose give the kits about 5 days to make sure they're doing well without their mother before letting them go to their new home!!
If handled and taken care of properly rabbits can be very exciting pets to have and live up to 10+ years. Most can be litter trained, therefore making it even more exciting when you're able to let them roam outside of their cage. Not only is it great to have them litter trained for the purpose of letting them out for a little excercise but it makes cleaning a WHOLE LOT EASIER. They can be very friendly and lovable with time and interaction. Like any other animal, rabbits have different personalities, which makes each one interesting in his or her ways.
Housing:
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors.
With indoor rabbits I recommend the rabbit's cage be kept in a more quiet place in the house away from open windows, an indoor rabbit not used to outside temperatures could easily catch a cold from a draft.
If you're wanting to house your rabbit outdoors I recommend putting them outdoors in the spring/ summer months, therefore they become climatized to the weather as it becomes colder. Make sure your outdoor bunny is out of the elements though, think of rain and snow as it can come through at many angles.
Keep in mind on hot summer days to supply your rabbit with something cool to lay on (ex. a frozen bottle) to keep your bun from over- heating.
Also, in the winter months to provide your rabbit with a warm place to cuddle up in.
I love using completely wire rabbit cages with metal trays underneath to catch urine and droppings. It keeps the rabbit clean and makes for easier cleaning of the cage. The metal trays can be pulled out, hosed down and sanitized easily.
Taking your bunny in and out of his cage:
Doing it backwards is easiest. When taking your rabbit out of his cage, doing it backwards just ensures that his feet (especially back feet) do not get caught on the sides of the cage door.
Then, when putting your rabbit back in the cage, when putting them in forwards they usually try to jump forward into their cage, possibly injuring you or your rabbit. Going in backwards they won't see the cage door coming and you can set them gently back into their cage.
Time:
It's a misconception that rabbits take no time to care for. If housed in a cage where they sit on bedding the cage should be cleaned every other day. They also need proper food, fresh water daily, proper grooming (especially for longer haired breeds and when shedding), and trimming their nails. If not kept up on trimming, this could lead to serious feet problems with the rabbit.
The more time you spend with your rabbit the more sociable, interactive, and happy pet you'll have.
Trimming Your Rabbit's Nails:
The way I trim my rabbit's nails is simple. I just set my rabbit on my lap with their head facing right or left, so their body is parallel with my own. I then gently pick up the outside front foot (side farthest away from you) and trim it (usually easy) and then the back foot. If your rabbit is relaxed they'll allow you to slide it out from under them sideways quite easily. After I am done that side I reverse them (ex. If their head was facing right you'll move them around so their head is now facing left). Once again pick up the rabbit's front foot then back.
If you're lucky enough to have someone to help you they can also hold the bunny for you. With one hand on the rabbit's chest and one on the rabbit's butt, your helper can then hold the rabbit to their chest with the rabbit's feet facing away from them. Makes it a lot easier for you to go ahead and trim.
Handling:
Handle your rabbits as much as possible. Also keep in mind that rabbits, like people, have different personalities; some like to be handled and cuddled a lot and other would just rather sit on your lap. There are many ways of picking up your rabbit when wanting to interact with them. Firstly, you can pick them up by their scruff (their skin on their upper back, closer to the ears to midsection of the rabbit's back). This is actually a very easy way to pick your rabbit up. If your rabbit is a little skiddish and tries to squirm it keeps you from getting scratched and its less likely you will drop your rabbit . Use one hand to gently grab the skin closer to the midsection of the rabbit to balance the weight of their body. Use your other hand to support their butt. Once picked up bring your bunny in close to your chest, with his head facing into your arm. If you plan on showing your rabbit I do not recommend picking your rabbit up this way. Or, another way of picking your bunny up is to slide your one hand under your rabbit's chest and another around it's butt, then gently pick up your rabbit. Start by handling your rabbit early, so they trust you later on. For children handling rabbits its easiest to start out by sitting on the floor and setting the rabbit on their lap to reduce the risk of the rabbit falling. Another way to start out by handling your rabbit is to wrap him up in a blanket, it'll makes your rabbit feel more secure.
Food/ Water:
I feed my rabbits a 1/2 cup to a cup of rabbit pellets a day, this way I know they're cleaning up their food and can instantly notice if one is sick and not eating. Another good thing about limiting their feed (for show rabbits) is to keep them from getting overly fat and flabby for the show tables. Also, for brood does, an over weight doe may have a difficult time becoming pregnant.
As for my pregnant and nursing does they get as much feed as they like. They have babies to take care of along with themselves and need all the food they can get.
I also give my pregnant does a mineral lick to give them that extra they may need while pregnant and/ or nursing.
Every so often I give them nice, grassy, 2nd cut hay which is a mix of timothy/ alfalfa.
My bunnies get fresh water daily and every so often I'll mix in with their water some medication and vitamins.
They also get treats (fresh grass, lettuce, and carrots).
From my experiences some safe treats for rabbits to eat are: apples (decore and make sure the apple is free of seeds), peaches, pears, seedless grapes, bananas, carrots, and lettuce.
Also, while picking the dandelions out of your yard save them for your bunny. Rabbits love the big dandelion leaves, as well as dandelions are good for your rabbits, especially if you have a sick bunny. If your rabbit isn't used to fresh greens don't feed too much, as it may cause diarrhea. Also make sure that where you pick your fresh greens (grass, dandelions, etc) that it hasn't been sprayed by insecticide!!!!!
Types:
Buck (male) or doe (female)?
I really do not have a preference, either make great pets.
Pairs??
I find some rabbits are happier in pairs, but rabbits have different personalities.
From the same litter is the best, as they've been born and raised together and of course the same sex UNLESS they've been spayed or neutered.
Personally I don't find any preference in having a pair of bucks together or two does, like I said rabbits have different personalities and it depends upon the two rabbits.
My personal experience with pairing rabbits:
I had two older does who I retired from breeding. I decided that since they were reitred to buy a big cage and put the two in together. I have had both does for a few years and in those years both had never been caged with another rabbit. Well I put them together and...... they LOVED eachother. I have never seen two animals love one another so much. They layed together/ ontop of eachother, and constantly groomed eachother. Well, one day sadly the one doe passed. So, I had another pet doe and felt bad for my now lonely doe and decided to put the two together. These two does never got along from the first time they saw eachother and still don't. So, personally I believe it depends all on the rabbits themselves.
Choosing a breed!
When choosing a breed my preference is a smaller type of rabbit, therefore I chose mini rexes. I find these are the best as indoor pet rabbits as they're smaller in type. I would only recommend larger breeds to those who have the space. But, all in all it's completely up to YOU and what you're looking for in a rabbit!!!
Breeding:
Terms:
Doe is a female rabbit and buck is a male rabbit.
Kit is the offspring or baby bunnies.
Kindling means birthing.
Catching/ catch means the doe was bred (you can tell by watching; the buck will kick over and fall off the doe, sometimes letting out a grunt).
Dam is the mother of a rabbit.
Sire is the father of a rabbit.
Weaning is when you remove the baby bunnies from the mother, they feed and drink on their own now.
There are many questions you should ask yourself before breeding.
Number one question should be WHY; whether you're choosing to breed for the purpose of showing, pets, or meat production.
I wouldn't recommend breeding for the purpose of JUST TO BREED and trying to make some extra $$$.
Most times the cost in raising them to weaning age (I wait until 6-8 weeks of age, sometimes longer) can be quite high.
Those who show their rabbits also have the cost of raising a whole herd, travelling expenses, time and energy, therefore most breeders are breeding because they love it.
If you're breeding for showing purposes be sure to take a good look at what you're breeding (colours, heritage, overall appearance [shoulders, hindquarters, etc], size, and especially with the mini rexes, FUR).
What kind of standards are you trying to meet???
Are you prepared for possible deaths?
Not only could you lose your whole litter, but with pregnancy complications you could lose your doe as well.
Be prepared for deaths, health complications, breeding complications, and to spend quite a bit of money.
Have patience!
Before breeding:
You'll need a cage for the doe, a cage for the buck, and when it comes time to wean, a cage for the kits.
If you're deciding to keep some of your kits you'll need to seperate them later on.
And so on... if you have more/ other breeding pairs.
Keep in mind, you'll need waterers, feederers, etc for all those cages.
Once you've chose your pair to breed make sure your rabbits are free of disease.
Are they sick?? Discharge from nose, runny eyes, loose stool.
Also overweight does have a hard time conceiving.
Breeding Begins:
Bring the doe to the bucks cage. If you bring the buck to the does cage he may be too busy sniffing around, and a doe could also be territorial/ aggressive about him being in her house.
The buck will mount her and within a few seconds he'll kick over and fall over/ off and sometimes grunt.
I usually allow the buck to catch the doe 3 times and remove her.
Some leave the doe in over night, I prefer to watch and make sure no one gets hurt and to make sure she catches.
After Breeding:
As early as 16 days the doe will show signs of being pregnant. Stuffing their mouths with hay and sometimes I've found they'll scratch their pellets our of their dish.
I don't put a nest box in until the 27th day. This keeps the nest box clean as some may muck about in the box by deficating in it, but still allows them time to make a nice nest.
I also use steel nest boxes as they're easy to clean and sanitize. I stuff the nest boxes full of straw, I like this best as it allows the doe to build a nice big nest and keep the kits nice and warm.
At 30- 32 days your doe should kindle. Sometimes your doe will pick fur before birthing but many won't pick fur until afterwards, so don't panic.
A rabbit can't pick up its offspring like cats so if one happens to fall out of the box you'll need to put it back in the nest. If a kit happens to fall out of the nest and becomes cold you may need to warm it up. Don't throw out a cold kit. Even though it may look dead USUALLY warming it up brings them right back.
Check on your litter daily, to ensure all are alive and healthy. If one's missing you may have a dead one somewhere in the nest, which you'll need to pick out as they can become a stinky mess.
At about 10- 12 days they should begin opening their eyes.
Then at about 3 weeks they will start coming out of the nest box, this is the time to take the nest box out, clean it up and have it ready for next use.
At about 4 weeks they'll start testing the feed and water.
At 6-8 weeks I like to wean mine. If you're breeding for show purposes I like to keep mine until 12- 14 weeks to determine their showing potential. If you're not breeding for this purpose give the kits about 5 days to make sure they're doing well without their mother before letting them go to their new home!!